Let's embark on a journey through time and space, exploring the captivating region of Cantabria, where history, art, and philosophy converge in unexpected ways. From prehistoric cave art to medieval towns and laid-back beach resorts, this area west of Santander offers a unique and captivating experience.
A Time Machine Unveiled
Imagine stepping into a time machine, where a half-hour drive transports you through millennia. This is the essence of Cantabria, a place where the past and present intertwine seamlessly.
The Sistine Chapel of Prehistoric Art
My journey began at the Cave of Altamira, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where I was captivated by the rich ochre and charcoal paintings of bison and deer. These prehistoric artists, hunter-gatherers from 13,000 to 36,000 years ago, utilized the natural contours of the cave to create a three-dimensional effect, leaving an indelible mark on history.
What makes this particularly fascinating is the debate that surrounded these paintings when they were first discovered. Experts initially dismissed them as fakes, unable to comprehend the sophistication of prehistoric art. It's a reminder of our tendency to underestimate the capabilities of our ancestors.
A Medieval Fairytale
From the Paleolithic era, we fast-forward to the Middle Ages in Santillana del Mar, a town that feels plucked from the pages of a fairytale. The winding cobbled streets, lined with nobles' houses and monastery buildings, transport you to a different time. The rain, far from being a hindrance, added to the magical atmosphere, emptying the streets of tourists and allowing for a more intimate experience.
Santillana's origins date back to the 9th century, when monks settled here with the relics of Saint Juliana. Over time, a monastery grew, followed by homes, farms, and workshops, forming a vibrant settlement. The town flourished during the Middle Ages, becoming an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, bringing trade and wealth, as evidenced by the grand stone houses and palaces.
Existential Philosophy and Adventure
In an intriguing twist, Santillana is not only linked to Christian pilgrimage but also to the existential philosophy of Jean-Paul Sartre. His novel, Nausea, features a conversation about adventure, where Santillana is described as "the prettiest town in Spain." This unexpected connection adds a layer of depth to the town's charm.
"Getting on the wrong train. Stopping in an unknown city." These words from Sartre's novel resonate as a definition of adventure—an event out of the ordinary, yet not necessarily extraordinary. It's a thought-provoking perspective on the nature of exploration and experience.
A Beachside Retreat
Our time-traveling journey concludes in Suances, a seaside town that offers a blend of traditional charm and modern luxury. The pastel-hued apartment blocks and seaside hotels provide a picturesque backdrop, especially when paired with the wide sandy dunes of Playa de la Concha.
The food scene in Suances is not to be missed. From the fresh rabas at Bonito Verde to the rumored best sushi in Cantabria at Suka, the culinary delights are a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage. And for a dramatic breakfast view, locals recommend Castillo de Los Locos, perched above the cliffs of Playa de Los Locos.
Reflections on Adventure
As I stood on the thin peninsula between Playa de Los Locos and La Concha, the sun finally breaking through the clouds, I reflected on the words of Sartre's Nausea protagonist. Adventure, he suggests, is not something we fully grasp in the moment. It is crafted retrospectively, by turning experiences into stories. "But you have to choose," he continues, "Live or tell."
This journey through Cantabria has been a testament to the power of exploration and the richness of human experience. From prehistoric art to medieval towns and beachside retreats, each stop offered a unique perspective, inviting us to reflect on our place in time and the stories we create along the way.
